Wednesday 3 October 2007

Cuillin


With the weather looking pretty peachy if a bit parky in the North West and a pretty minimal chance of rain, there was really only one place that I was going to go last weekend. Pysche levels were pretty high and by midweek the lure of the Cuillin Ridge on Skye was proving too strong to resist, Will and Steve were roped in Jones's party on Wednesday night and the plan finalised.



After the normal faff leaving Edinburgh, a swing by Rik's to pick him up following a last minute decision to come along and the usual disorganised shop at the Forth Road Bridge Tesco, we didn't really get on our way till almost 8, not ideal for the long drive to Glen Brittle. Still the journey whizzed by, aided by England's rugby victory and the sexy voice of Annie Mac on radio. We rendez-voued with Steve and Will in the Slig and managed to fit seven people and kit in the drive down the glen. We turned in at about twenty past one, not really relishing the alarm going off at quarter to four.



Alpine starts never get any easier, and after a minor path dilemma, found the right one and trudged up into Coire Ghrunda. The only exciting moment on the walkin was Will dropping his Platipus somewhere near the lochan in the dark, but he swiftly found it and dawn was slowly breaking as we pulled up onto the ridge crest. We dumped our sacks and scrambled along the ridge to Garbhs Bheinn, the first point of the ridge. The problem about choosing the easier walk up the Coire instead of the scree slops of Garbhs Bheinn is that you have to retrace your steps back, so for the first part of the ridge you feel like you're making no progress. It was 0707 when we turned and began the traverse proper.



The first part of the ridge to the TD gap is pretty straightforward, the legs are fresh, the rock wounderfully rough and featured, the sun is shinig and the whole thing seems a bit of a breeze, after the first Munro of Sgurr nan Eag we made a detour off the ridge to bag the optional one - Sgurr Dubh Mor (you might as well if you're there). The gap is a wee bit of a struggle but very short lived. From here its a shortish scramble to Sgurr Alasdair - the highest point (sort of all downhill from here...). At this point a quick glance at the watch showed that Es had just about finished by now on his record breaking run, we still had another 8 hours to go - I'm not sure he's really human.



The Kings Chimmney passed easily and at about 1130 we were standing atop the Inn Pinn. I was quite happy with the 4hrs 30mins we'd taken to this point. This put us inside the rockfax split for a total time of 12hrs end to end, the time we roughly needed to take if we wanted to finish in daylight. The weather had clouded over a bit but still looked good, so the sunnies came off but still no need to wear more than a t-shirt. The next section went on and on and on, lots of semi-technical scrambling that was easy enough but needs a little care and constant ascents and descents. By the time we reached Bidean Steve was feeling it a bit and had run out of water, I gave him an energy gel and some of mine and he perked up considerably.



It was now about 3pm, we felt we'd made good progress but the guide suggested a further 5.5 hrs from this point to the summit of Sgurr nan Gillean. This was a bit of a sick joke as the end was clearly in sight now and it would also mean we'd finish in the dark. Nothing to do but plow on. The next section was definitely the hardest for me, traversing Bidean was fun but the slog up Bruach na Frithe wasn't. I was running low on water but had to ration it a bit in order to share with Steve and Will, I was feeling pretty dehydrated and the legs were beginning to protest. However, the sun came out again bathing everything in late afternoon light and when we reached the summit of Bruach in an 1hr 40mins - well inside the rockfax time of 3hrs30mins, I knew it was in the bag.



The last sting in the tail was Naismiths Route up the Bhasteir Tooth, Rick calmly soloed it and I led up after with Will and Steve behind. Although super exposed, it's on massive holds and was surprisingly straightforward despite the tired legs. From here its another load of scrambling down and then finally up the last bit to the top of Sgurr nan Gillean. Topped out at 7.27pm, 11hrs and 20mins after starting. It was pretty cool sitting at the top as the Red Cuillin were illuminted by the setting sun and looking back at the torturous 7 miles of ridge crest and the 300m of ascent and descent we'd done. It really lives up to its tag as the best alpine outing in country and although never hard it does keep concentrating the whole way as a slip would be pretty fatal most of the way along. It was a great time of year to do it as well, no midges or people and the weather wasn't too warm which meant dehydrating was less of a problem. Great day out and I reckon the team photo on the top says it all really.



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